DOG WHELPING

Your dog being pregnant can be a nerve racking time for owners who have not had the experience before. Just like with human babies the first is the most challenging and if you intend on doing this often – don’t worry it gets easier with practice.

Follow some of these tips for making the birthing process as easy as you can for your dog.

Labor

Generally dogs give birth after about 63 days of pregnancy. NO matter how planned or coordinated the pregnancy is nobody can predict on which day your dog is due. The universal standard is anywhere between 59 and 69 days. If your dog is extremely large she might carry the pups for much longer and smaller breeds tend to deliver sooner.

Chances are your dog will start behaving differently when the time comes. On the day of the labor your bitch will seen anxious and nervous. Every dog reacts differently. Some dogs whine, others even vomit!

Make sure the birthing area is ready you will need a whelping box set up in a quiet and warm area for her. Many dogs begin ‘nesting’ when the labor is near. You will want to make sure that the box is lined with newspaper so you can easily clean up the birthing mess without disturbing the puppies.

Around the time that you suspect your dog is ready you should start taking her temperature at regular intervals. When her temperature starts dropping to 100F and below you can expect the puppies to be delivered within the next 24 hours.

Labor Stage 1

During this stage your dog’s cervix is dilating to allow space for the puppies to come out. She will start experiencing painful contractions and become restless.

Every dog has a different reaction but commonly start pacing, shivering, whining or vomiting as the contractions become stronger and more painful.

Try to remember that she is confused by the pain if it’s her first time.

If you can try to minimize noise in the area around the birthing area; your dog is feeling frightened and experiencing some strange instincts. Close the door and try to keep the amount of people in the room to a minimum. Just you and a ‘helper’ should be sufficient.

Labor Stage 2

During the second stage of her labor you can expect to see her water breaking, her contractions are now coming closer together and are much more painful.

The puppies start coming out usually within half an hour of each other and different dogs deal with it differently; some dogs take a nap between pups others just keep going.

As the puppies come out the bitch should tear the sac open and start licking the puppy. Her licking stimulates circulation and many believe that this is one of the most important parts of the birth of happy well adjusted puppies. The licking not only helps puppies breathe, it stimulates circulation as well as bonding with the puppies.

If the dog does not tear the sacs open herself you will need to intervene. Using your nails pierce the sac and rub the puppies. Never however tear open a sac if a puppy is stuck and hanging out the birth canal.

It’s common for puppies to be born in a breech position and experts say the best way to deal with this is to gently but firmly tug on the puppy’s feet. Use a twisting motion to loosen the puppy. Keep some lubricant on hand just in case. If more than 4 hours passes between puppies it’s time for medical intervention.

Labor Stage 3

After all the puppies have been born any left over placenta, blood and fluid is passed. Don’t freak out if the color of the blood is not red and especially with her bowel movements. Bowel movements will be a different color for a few days.

Whelping

The puppies are fragile and you will need to carefully monitor their growth over the next few days. Keep the whelping room warm, quiet and supervised at all times.

If one puppy seems to be getting less milk than the others you may need to separate them from the others to allow for some one on one time with mom. If weak puppies show little improvement you may need to bottle feed. Also have some Karo syrup on hand. Put syrup on baby finger, just about a pea size and put it in the puppy’s mouth. This gives those small ones some extra energy. Babies should gain several ounces within 24 hours and if they don’t there may be something wrong. It may be time to see the vet.

Congratulations! The hardest part is now over. Be sure to take your dog for a complete checkup soon after the birth. If you intend on selling the puppies you can now phone prospective buyers and confirm the number of healthy pups.

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

When puppies are first born and for the first three weeks of their life, their total awareness is confined to their sense of smell. Their eyes do not open for at least two weeks and it is often three weeks before their sense of hearing is beginning to come into play. Consequently, their whole existence is limited to the knowledge that they glean from their sense of smell. Even these first few weeks can have an impact on the puppies’ training. For example, if the pups are kept in an unclean environment or small confinement where the dam has no chance to keep a clean bed area for her pups, this will sometimes carry through into later life and a puppy will be more difficult to housetrain.

Puppies who are exposed to light stress in this period of time seem to have a better ability to withstand stress later in their lives. Changes in the environmental temperature, being handled, being moved about…these are “stressors” for the young puppy. Breeders who routinely clean the whelping area, removing the puppies while cleaning out the area, picking them up, weighing them, are also actually improving the puppies ability later in life to adapt to changes.

The period of three weeks to six weeks is the most opportune time for the puppy to develop true “dog behaviors”. Puppies who are removed from their littermates before six weeks often do not learn dog behavior. When they are with littermates, they are taught what a bite is and whether they are biting too hard. They are taught what a growl means and what will happen if they ignore a growl. In short, they are taught manners by their littermates and their dam. These manners will be important to them all the rest of their lives when they interact with other dogs.

After the third week and all through the growing up in the whelping area, puppies should be exposed to as many different environmental stimulation as possible. Surfaces they can walk on that are wobbly, things they can smell and bounce around with their noses or their paws, things that make noise, things that they can climb on…all are important for the tactile, sensual and emotional development of the dog. Imaginative breeders will fill the lives of the puppies with such stimulation, knowing that in the end it will provide for a well-balanced animal that can adapt to many different situations and remain a stable personality.

Puppies often go through what some behaviorists call a “fear stage” at about eight to nine weeks of age. This developmental stage seems to be a time when puppies will be affected more strongly by occurrences that may startle them or frighten them. Puppies who have already been heavily exposed to lots of stimulation in their environment are much less likely to be influenced by unusual or traumatic events during this “fear stage”.

Taking all of this into consideration, one can see that the choice of a puppy’s breeder can be important in the choice of a puppy. Prospective “parents” of a new puppy would do well to evaluate not only the new puppy but the breeder of the puppy and seek out a breeder who has some knowledge about the early developmental stages of the puppy.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dog Training

If you are fond of one particular breed of dog and you are a dog-breeding beginner, you might wish to consider committing to the improvement of your favorite breed. Usually this involves working with a particular bloodline and try to create specific traits for future generations.

All a dog-breeding beginner needs, as far as dogs are concerned, are one or more fertile female dogs. But a good dog breeder, even a beginner, will naturally avoid dogs that have any major flaws. While it is not unusual for breeders to want their dogs to win championships and raise the value of future puppies, the chance for the breeder to network with people knowledgeable about the breed is more important. As your network widens, the chances of meeting another exhibitor having a dog that has traits that you are looking for to improve your dogs lineage. So you might get the opportunity to breed the two dogs and get top quality puppies.

Dog-breeding beginners who are seriously intend to breed dogs for many years, should choose a kennel name and register it with the American Kennel Club. You can choose the name of one of your puppies as the kennel name.

Get a kennel permit even if your state does not require it. A permit will be needed eventually and as the number of dogs increases, the neighbors could object and create problems later on. Get a permit as soon as you get the first dog or puppy.

The first breeding of a female dog should take place with a male dog belonging to an experienced breeder. Dogs do not fall in love at first sight and remain in heat only for a few days. Experienced breeders know how to introduce dogs and how to help them breed successfully.

Take the dog to the veterinarian for at least one prenatal visit after breeding is complete. Usually the vet or an x-ray can tell how many puppies may be expected. Collect all information related to birthing from the vet and be prepared because some dogs must deliver by C-section. Remember to make note of all prenatal vitamins to ensure the dog’s good health.

Prepare a quiet spot for the dog as the delivery day approaches. Some of the items to kept handy are: whelping box, clean rags, heating pad. Also keep the vet’s emergency number within reach. Either purchase a whelping box or make one, as it is easy. Be sure to put a small ledge in the box in order to avoid the accidental crushing of the puppies after delivery.

The hardest part comes after the delivery when you realize that those adorable little puppies will soon have to be sent to new homes of their own.

Get all of your dog information at http://yougodog.com

Copyright 2006 @ Ann Born http://yougodog.com

No part of this article may be reproduced in any manner without including the author’s bio

The average pregnancy timeline for dogs is 63 days. You should start taking your dog’s temperature around day 56 from the first successful breeding attempt. Do this at least once in the morning and again at night. The normal temp is 100-102 degrees. Once this drops to about 98 degrees, your dog is within 24 hours of whelping her puppies. We suggest having your pregnant dog sleep in her whelping box or other preferred area for about a week before her due date. This will get her used to being there so she is not as uncomfortable when the time comes. This is also helpful in case she delivers in the middle of the night.

Labor Stage I

When she reaches this point your dog will probably stop eating within the final 24 hours before whelping her litter. She will want you close by and may follow you around. The experienced dam may stay in the whelping box, knowing her puppies are about to be born. A mucus discharge may be visible on her vulva area. She will move around and start to pant, trying to get comfortable as her contractions begin to start. This stage can last a few hours.

Labor Stage II

Your dog will be panting heavier now, may display a digging/nesting behavior looking for a place to whelp, will be licking her vulva frequently and rolling around or pacing back and forth. She will also start to shiver and will start having mild contractions. This stage is much quicker than the first unless complications arise.

Labor Stage III

Your dog will display extreme shivering now. Her contractions will be hard and more frequent. This will be very noticeable. As she gets closer to whelping you should be able to see a big discharge of fluid before the first puppy presents. It could be the water breaking from the first puppy OR from her cervical mucous plug passing. During contractions many dogs remain silent but it is not uncommon for them to make grunting noises as they happen. When your dog is ready to whelp she will sit up, squat or lay on her side. This is when the first puppy is moving into the birth canal and is ready to present. You will notice a clear sac that the puppy is encased in. It may be visible for up to an hour before coming all the way out, protruding further with each contraction (This varies by breed). This sac may rupture as it passes or the puppy & placenta may be pushed out together with the puppy still encased. Many times the puppy comes out and the placenta remains until further contractions. Either way it is vital remove the sac and clear the newborn’s airway from any fluids to prevent trauma!

Okay, so the first puppy is born. What now?

You can see all this and Much More on The Doggy DVD Graphic Puppy Whelping DVD

Puppy Whelping Video

For more info on whelping puppies successfuly visit

Doggy DVD - Videos for All your Dog Needs!

www.DoggyDVD.com

Featuring Award Winning Dog Training Videos, Breed Specific DVDs and our Exclusive Puppy Whelping Birth DVD

This Puppy Whelping article comes from our knowledge of breeding Miniature Australian Shepherds. You can see our puppies on our Galena Aussies website Mini Australian Shepherds

During a shih tzu whelping you should have the puppies in a small box (I use plastic rubbermaid boxes of various sizes). In bottom of the box place a heating pad. On top the heating pad, place a soft baby receiving blanket. Drape another receiving blanket over top the box. This creates an incubator type environment for your newborns.

When you are sure your shih tzu has delivered all her puppies, place the puppies from the incubator box in the whelping box with mom (after you clean the whelping box and provide clean linens). I use various types of whelping box liners such as towels, quilts, baby blankets, regular blankets. Most shih tzu mothers are anxious to accept their babies and will probably make a fuss about any of them being out of her reach. There is always the exception, however, and if she does not accept them right away do not be alarmed. I have never had a shih tzu mother to refuse her babies for longer than a few minutes actually. If mom is tired or in a momentary state of shock she might not feel like being with her newborns right away.

A funny story about one of my shih tzu moms, which was my movie star girl, Ginger, and I will place Ginger’s picture in this article. I had a family emergency just as Ginger started to deliver her first litter. Oddly she whelped in daylight (usually it is always night or early morning for whelpings). I had no other choice but to leave her for a short while. She had whelped one puppy with me by her side doing my chores with the whelping process. When I returned, I found just that one puppy she whelped before I left and I assumed she had not delivered anymore. I looked at her and said, Ginger, no more puppies yet?

Suddenly Ginger pointed with her head to the small step that leads out of this area where she was whelping and there layed another puppy. I could almost hear her saying: “over there it is.” It was comical and I labeled it as one of the shih tzu’s many comical antics they are capable of coming up with. I also was troubled she did that. There she sat in the whelping box by herself. The one puppy she whelped before I left still in its spot. And now on the step lays her second puppy. Why in this world she got up there and had the puppy, then returned to her box is left to anyone’s imagination or opinion, but I felt it was an “antic,” perhaps even because I left her. She knew I was looking for more puppies as soon as I returned and immediately showed me where it was. Almost anything to be contrary sometimes is a shih tzu.

I have always been able to put the shih tzu newborns in with the mother immediately after the whelping. I keep a heating pad in the box with mom and puppies.

You should take your mother shih tzu to the vet within 8 hours after a whelping. He will give her two injections most likely. One is to expel all things from uterus (sometimes part of a placenta or even a dead puppy may remain in the uterus). The other injection will be an antibiotic to guard against infection. Calcium pills and small supply of antibiotics might also be prescribed. Different vets have different protocols. Sometimes a vet will have you to give your shih tzu mom calcium pills until weaning.

If your mom shih tzu had a long whelping, you might offer her some milk between the delivery of the puppies and give her a chance to relieve herself. You will want to carry her out, and keep a tight rein on her. You don’t want her running off somewhere to finish delivering. Some of my shih tzu have repeatedly tried to pick their own whelping spot and it could be under the porch for all they care. Why they would choose under the porch rather than a nice soft blanket in a box to deliver is way beyond me, except of course, just another way to be stubborn and contrary.

Clean the hindquarters with a damp towel right after whelping and dry her thoroughly. When it seems she has rested some, settled in and the puppies have nursed a little and are quiet, it will be safe to take mom for a full shampoo. Be sure and leave the heating pad in the whelping box and put your receiving blanket over the whelping box to hold in the heat. Chilling is number one cause for newborn fatality. Don’t let mom get chilled during the bath. Blow dry her thoroughly. She will probably be nervous and upset to be taken away from her babies and very anxious to return to them, but you need to be sure mom shih tzu is thoroughly dry before returning her to her babies, so pay this no attention.

A breeder’s main tasks after whelping and until weaning time is to keep the captain of the ship (your shih tzu mom) well fed, plenty of fresh water and a clean, dry whelping box. There are several effective cleaners on the market for cleaning the box. I like using just a mixture of bleach and water. Clorox bleach is very effective against parvo virus. At this point, the breeder can begin to feel much like a “maid servant” to her shih tzu mom and newborns. The sight of these precious little babies make up for most of it, however. If they are a healthy crew, they will wiggle and squirm nudging each other out of the way to get to their precious “milk,” from mom.

My moms often will be so excited about their babies, they will hold out their tongues as if in sheer joy and laughter. Look out for a fuss from mom each time you remove the puppies from the box to clean. She will most likely jump inside the small box you place the puppies in, no matter how small that box is, my mothers still try to fit themselves in there with their new babies. They are terrified the babies cannot survive a second without them, and this is actually very, very true. There is no other care that replaces the care of the mother during this time of a newborn’s life. I always try my best to accommodate mom’s wishes, and respect her instinct, although it does create a little havoc at cleaning time. At this time, newborn shih tzu are aware of anything but their mother. Mom will stimulate them to defecate and urinate. They are born unable to do so on their own. Their eyes and their ears are glued shut. Their open up at about 10 days.

I recommend and feed HealthyPetNet Life’s Abundance to my nursing moms.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

You are a dog lover and a responsible pet owner. You know today is the whelping day of your bitch and you make yourself available for this event. You know well that preparation for the whelping day is a very important task. So, you make the supplies available and ready on hand. So far, everything went well.

But delivery problems do arise sometimes. Your dog can’t tell you she is in trouble. You got to know what to look for in case whelping is not going to happen the normal way in the earliest possible time. And you got to know when to seek the assistance of your veterinarian.

Although most dogs deliver without need for assistance, professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:

A bitch’s temperature drops and no signs of labor begin within 24 hours. Some veterinarians recommend to start taking the temperature of the bitch two or three times daily about one week prior to anticipated whelping. This will help to ensure you do not miss the temperature drop that signals oncoming whelping.
Two hours from the first strong contraction go by without any puppy coming out. The most common reason for these the delays to take place is the uterine inertia or what is the same, the lack of muscular tone in the uterus, although you must also suspect of the existence of hormonal anomalies.
There is strong, persistent labor for 30 minutes without a puppy being delivered. If it takes more than 30 minutes for the puppy to be born, he can mean that it is either too big or not well-positioned.
There is weak, intermittent labor for 30 minutes without delivery of any puppies.
Green, black or red discharge can be seen before delivery, indicating placental separation.
t has been more than 4 hours since the last birth and it is probable that more puppies are still inside.
There is a greenish-black discharge and no labor or puppies within 3-4 hours. The greenish-black color is normal, but such a discharge should be followed very soon by the delivery of the pups.
The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy.
The mother’s body temperature exceeds 103ºF (39.4ºC) (via a rectal thermometer).
Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes.
Difficulty delivering may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the litter, and size of the puppies are factors used in making that decision. The best thing to do then is to be able to evaluate the kind of problem and act accordingly, most often turning to the help of the veterinarian.

Copyright by Ruben Francia. All Rights Reserved.
Publishing Rights: You have permission to publish this article electronically, in print, in your ebook or on your website, free of charge, as long as the author bylines are included.

Ruben Francia is an author/publisher of ebooks, articles and websites. For more information, visit his site on dogs and chihuahua pregnancy.

A normal canine pregnancy lasts approximately sixty-three days following conception. Signs of pregnancy include increased appetite, weight and breast size. Dogs with false pregnancy can also exhibit these symptoms, however. Veterinarians can usually diagnose pregnancy through abdominal palpation at twenty-eight days or by using ultrasound or X-ray tests.

Once pregnancy is confirmed, it’s time to review special feeding requirements and what to expect before, during and after the birth with your veterinarian. You should also be briefed on how to recognize and respond to an emergency.

A few days before she gives birth (known as whelping), the dog may refuse to eat and start to build her nest, where she plans to have her puppies. Unless you introduce her beforehand to a whelping box, the delivery room may be your closet, the space under your bed or any number of places you would probably consider inappropriate.

A whelping box should be sufficiently large to accommodate a comfortable stretch for the dog. It should have low sides and be placed in a warm, dry/draft-free and secluded place. Place towels or other soft material in the bottom of the whelping box. Fresh newspapers are also fine and may be easily removed and replaced as they become soiled during whelping. Once whelping is completed/ however, you should replace the newspapers with something that provides better footing for the puppies.

Shortly before whelping, the dog’s body temperature will drop to 99 degrees or lower (normal temperature for a dog is between l00 and 102.5 degrees). By this time, you should have shaved her belly, where appropriate, to allow the puppies to find the nipples. If she has a long or dense coat, you should also shave and clean the area around her genitals.

Approximately twenty-four hours after her temperature drops, she can be expected to enter the first stage of labor, when the cervix dilates and opens the birth canal for the passage of puppies. At this time, she will pant, strain, appear restless or may perhaps vomit. Vomiting is normal at the onset of labor, but persistent vomiting may be a sign of illness. This stage of labor is followed by actual abdominal straining and production of the puppies and placentas.

Most dogs give birth easily, without the need of human help. Each puppy emerges in its own placental membrane, which must be removed before the puppy can breathe. The mother usually takes care of this by tearing off and eating the membrane, and then severs the umbilical cord. After delivery, she will lick each puppy to stimulate its breathing.

Frequent licking, which continues for three weeks or so, also has another vital function: it stimulates the puppy to excrete waste. Without maternal assistance puppies cannot do so. At the time of birth, new mothers are also busy cleaning their offspring, warming them and allowing them to suckle. It is very important for the puppies to suckle soon after emerging from the womb. Suckling lets them ingest colostrum - a milk-like substance containing maternal antibodies which is produced in the mammary glands just after birth. Colostrum helps the newborn puppies fight infection in their early days while their own immune systems mature.

For more information and advice on dog giving birth visit http://www.dogcaretraining.com, a website that specializes in providing tips, advice and resources on dog care and training.